Is there really a good reason to pay an automotive shop to have your check engine light diagnosed? If you Google “check engine light” you can find a lot of advice recommending you simply go to a local parts store, some of who will “scan” the code in the computer for free.  Sounds like a good deal but is it really?  

The problem I have with this method is that what you will get is a code number and a description of the code.  For us technicians, the code leads us to further testing where we prove what is really wrong so that we can guarantee our repair and know that the check engine light will not come back on.  The parts store might sell you the part that is mentioned in the description text, with the warning that it may or may not fix the problem.  (I have to give them credit, it’s a great way to increase sales!)
For example, I once had a customer go to a parts shop and pull a code that read “EGR system low flow”.  They suggested a likely cause was a defective EGR solenoid, and that they had one the shelf that cost about $350.  My customer declined buying the part and instead came to me to have it diagnosed.  The reality was that the EGR solenoid was a possible cause.  What we found was that the EGR hose had come off the valve and this was the cause of low flow.  In this case the cost of diagnosis and repair was less than the cost of the recommended part. 

Another example is code P0174 – oxygen sensor stuck lean bank 2.  The oxygen sensor could be defective, but it could also simply be responding to something as simple as a leaking vacuum hose and be stuck lean for that reason.  Replacing the oxygen sensor in this case will result in the light coming on again with the same code.

Don’t misunderstand me, I think its fine to work on your own car.  In fact it’s how I got started in this business as a young person. You must simply accept the fact that there is a learning curve and you may replace perfectly good parts accidentally.  The key is that to learn how to fix a system, you must first learn how the system works.  We do not yet live in a world where an inexpensive code reader will tell you what part to replace with any degree of certainty. 

Brons Automotive has been repairing the true cause of why check engine lights come on for years in Olympia, Lacey, Tumwater, and Thurston County and backs their work with a 2 year/24,000 mile warranty.   

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                Now that winter is around the corner, it seems like a good time to talk about tire and alignment issues.  Tires that are getting thin on tread life might be fine on dry pavement, but will be dangerous on the freeway in rain, especially when there are ruts worn in the pavement where water can collect. At higher speeds the tire can hydroplane and cause a loss of control.  Look at your tires and find the wear bars, (wear bars are rubber in the groove that is raised 2/32 of an inch above the bottom of the groove and becomes flush with the tread surface when tread depth is down to 2/32 of an inch.), If the wear bars are close to the surface of the tread, replace the tires before the rains come . 

                Look at the tread surface and see if the wear is even across the surface. Tires that are worn on both edges worse than the center got that way from being underinflated.  Tires worn worse in the center than the edges have been run overinflated. Other than these two examples, uneven wear is a sign of poor alignment.  An alignment is also indicated if the car pulls to one side.  A common misconception is that if tires vibrate on the freeway, an alignment is needed. This is untrue.  Vibration that gets worse the faster you drive is almost always a tire or tires out of balance.

                Your vehicles wheels will generally stay in alignment for a fair amount of time.  I typically have an alignment done when I purchase new tires.  I also have the alignment checked if I hit a curb hard or hit an especially bad pothole.  Any time the steering wheel becomes off center after hitting something while driving straight down the road, means an alignment must be performed or rapid tire wear will result. 

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Are you debating between purchasing a used vehicle or a new one?  Studies have consistently shown that owning a used vehicle is less expensive on a cost per mile basis than purchasing a new one.  This of course takes into consideration a lot of factors, from the monthly payments on the new car to the higher cost of collision insurance.  It also factors in the different amounts of sales tax paid in each case.  Remember also that even if you have a new vehicle, there are maintenance services that have to be done.

My personal favorite tactic for years has been to purchase a good used vehicle that has from 50,000 to 80,000 miles on it.  Depreciation , (which happens the minute you drive a new car off the showroom floor), has made this mileage car much more affordable, and if it has been maintained properly, it usually has a lot of life left in it before any nasty repairs start popping up.  You can figure on the next 100,000 miles having a few repairs and maintenance in them, but the sum total will be quite a bit less than the ownership costs of a new vehicle. 

Many folks are afraid of buying a used vehicle for fear of ending up with a “lemon”, and this is valid.  The way to avoid this is to always have a good technician perform a used car evaluation.  Also ask for the cars service records to verify that the appropriate maintenance has been done, and walk away if there are no records.

We bought my wife’s car at 85,000 miles and have performed the maintenance services that I also recommend to my customers.  It is now up to almost 180,000 miles on it with only two major unexpected  repairs, ball joints and an air conditioning compressor.  We expect many more miles of relatively inexpensive cruising from this car.  If you do elect to purchase a new car, we can show you how to get the most miles out of it and lower the cost per mile over it’s life. 

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